Note 13: A similar legend, but without topographical indications, appears first in Philostorgios, bk. 1, frag. 9. The mention of the Forum indicates that the entry is the work of the last redactor, who imagined a pre-Constantinian wall of Byzantion.
Today I go to Üsküdar. From Avcılar, I walk to the metrobus station, which I take to Cevizlibağ. At Cevizlibağ, I transfer to the tramvay and take that into the city. The tramvay takes me past a section of the still-impressive ruins of the Theodosian Walls marking and defending the western edge of ancient Constantinople. I travel to the First Hill of Istanbul and begin to descend toward the mouth of the Golden Horn. I exit the tramvay at Sirkeci on the side of the hill, where I transfer to the Marmaray, a new subway line that goes underneath the mouth of the Bosporus and connects the European side of the city to the Asian side. I get off at the Üsküdar stop, where I walk to a cafe and sit.
Today I go to Ortaköy. From Avcılar, I walk to the metrobus station, which I take to Zincirlikuyu, the last stop before crossing the Bosporus Bridge and going to the Asian side of the city. From Zincirlikuyu, I take a minibus or dolmuş down the hill to Beşiktaş. From Beşiktaş, I walk along Çırağan Caddesi, passing Çırağan Sarayı. The former palace is now one of the most expensive hotels in the city. The palace was built in the mid-19th century and is the last new palace erected by the Ottoman sultanate before the fall of the empire. I walk underneath the marble bridge that connects Çırağan Sarayı to Yildiz Sarayı, perched above it on the hill. Shortly after, I arrive in Ortaköy where I find a rooftop cafe and sit.
Today I go to Kadıköy. From Beyoğlu, I take the Tünel to Karaköy where I get on a ferry to Kadıköy. From the ferry, I watch what could be termed as the old city on one side and the new city on the other. I watch both the Hagia Sophia and the modern skyscrapers get smaller as the ferry takes me across the Bosporus and down into the Sea of Marmara toward this neighborhood on the southern part of the Asian side of the city. As it usually is, the sea is filled with ferries, small boats, cruise ships, shipping liners, and oil tankers. As I arrive at the dock in Kadıköy, I see a large banner covering the Haydarpaşa train station, which ceased active service in 2012. The banner advertises an art installation by Rahşan Düren called e-motions. The ferry docks, I depart to go deeper into the part of the city that once was Chalcedon in Byzantine times.
The Turkish word for Bosporus is Boğaziçi, meaning quite literally “inside the throat.” The term Bosporus itself is of quite uncertain etymology, possibly referring to a cattle passage or possibly from a Greek verb meaning to be clogged, filled up, or stopped as in a water line or drain.
The rule of three is a rhetorical belief that pairing three items together will make a form of communication stronger, more effective, and more memorable.
The lobby area of SALT Beyoğlu is currently filled with an installation and project headed by Neyran Turan titled Strait. The installation is a recreation of the Bosporus, and to enter the gallery one walks through this recreation, navigating the surprisingly narrow and winding trench along which the many ships and tankers exporting and importing goods and oil also must navigate. At the end of the corridor, there is a short animated film in which an oversized oil tanker gets stuck in the Bosporus and then becomes incorporated into the future development of the city. The Bosporus, no longer navigable, becomes a new space to develop and settle. The waterway, now unable to sustain the trade routes that have made the city crucial throughout history, is filled in and the new land is populated with real estate developments. Monuments to previous wrecks are built, predecessors to that final ship that remains in the middle of this new expansion of the city. The failure of navigation turned into a fact of life turned into an opportunity to develop or grow or exploit turned into a monument reminding us to remember some thing that was built or that was conquered/lost or that simply happened.